I spent 77 hours traveling from California to DC by train. It was worth it, but there are things everyone should know before any long ride.

When I boarded the California Zephyr at the first stop of the line in Emeryville (right across the bay from San Francisco), I was able to pick my seat.

I made sure to take advantage of it because the seat you pick matters in terms of views.

If you want to see San Francisco Bay, Donner Lake, and the Rocky Mountains, sit on the left side. However, the right side is better if you prefer being close to the Colorado River.

Whichever side you pick, you can always go to the observation car for even better views.

Everyone wants to be in the observation car during the most scenic stretches of the Zephyr’s route — especially through the Rocky Mountains — which makes it tricky to find a seat.

If it’s full, head to the café car, which is right below the observation deck on the Zephyr. There are tables right up against the large windows, and you’ll have almost as good a view as you’d get upstairs.

You have to buy something to sit there, but I thought it was worth it for a change of scenery.

The California Zephyr didn’t have WiFi on board, and cell service was poor or nonexistent going through the Sierra Nevada mountains and parts of Nevada, Colorado, and Nebraska.

Luckily, I’d downloaded some movies and reading materials in advance, which helped pass the time when I couldn’t use the internet.

I don’t think you can reliably work remotely from the train. Even when I was on the Cardinal line, which offers WiFi, I found the service cut in and out frequently.

Thankfully, the train cars are air-conditioned in the summer. However, that can also make them quite chilly, especially at night.

I came prepared for my rides with some thermal leggings and a puffy jacket.

Make sure to wear clothes that you’re comfortable sitting in for extended periods. I also recommend bringing a change of clothes (or at least an extra shirt) if you’re traveling for multiple days.

I stopped at Trader Joe’s before my trip and came fully loaded with some granola bars, clementines, and pita chips.

My haul kept me from being too hungry when the café car ran out of everything I wanted to eat.

Though there were vegetarian options on the train, if you’re vegan or have any special dietary needs or allergies, it’s probably best to bring some of your own food.

I realized on this journey that the café car had a supply of free hot water. You can bring your own food, like a cup of instant noodles, or tea, and just ask a staff member to fill up your cup.

I saw several passengers doing this and wished I’d thought to bring some just-add-water meals. 

There were also spigots dispensing drinking water throughout the train, though they were pretty slow to use. I wanted to avoid buying bottled water, so I made do.

My seats leaned back and had a leg rest that extended outward, making it much easier to sleep than on a plane.

Even so, a pillow is essential — either a travel pillow that you can use to sleep upright or a standard one that you can lean against the window.

My jacket wasn’t enough to keep me warm at night when it got really chilly, so I was also glad I’d brought a blanket.

The railroads on which Amtrak trains travel are owned by private companies that also cater to freight trains. That leads to a lot of delays, as Amtrak waits to let other trains pass.

A longer route like the California Zephyr’s can fall behind schedule by hours each time. 

I was lucky that my train to Chicago was only about an hour delayed, so I ended up having two hours to make my connection to the Cardinal. However, these potential delays are something to consider when purchasing a ticket with a tight layover.

Amtrak stops tend to be pretty short — you can’t even get off the train for many of them, and others are just 10-minute smoke breaks.

Occasionally, at major stops, though, there’s enough time to get out and enjoy the station. For example, Union Station in Denver offered a variety of great restaurants, shops, and bars to enjoy while I waited for my train to depart.

If you get off at a stop, listen closely for announcements from the conductor to keep track of when your train will be leaving.

This story was originally published in September 2022 and most recently updated on December 31, 2025.